Mazara del Vallo
It is rare when traveling, to arrive in a new destination and to feel immediately, entirely at home; comfortable and without worry, walking streets like they are your own although it is the first time your feet have ever stepped upon these stones. This is how I felt leaving the train station in Mazara del Vallo. Even though it was already dark, I walked without hesitation, and with a serene air surrounding me. Guiding me, home.
The streets of Mazara del Vallo
Mazara del Vallo is a small city on the west coast of Sicily. It is absolutely beautiful. I have wanted to visit this city for years, as it is the place in which my great-grandfather was born. He left Sicily to come to the United States over 100 years ago. No one in my family had returned to Sicily since then. Until now.
The remains of the Chiesa di Sant’Ignazio
Mazara del Vallo is dynamic, lively, fun. There is not just one adjective that can be used to describe it. The centuries of invasion that Sicily witnessed are still felt here, they are still present in the architecture, the food, the people. Upon arrival I wove my way through the walking streets of La Kasbah, the historically Arabic neighborhood. I was reminded of my time in Morocco, with its low, sand-colored buildings and small alleyways. I was starving from the long train ride, so I headed to Eyem Zemen, a Tunisian restaurant. I had delicious bread, couscous with fish, and of course, a Birra Moretti. Seated in a small piazza, it was the perfect place to enjoy a meal and the staff was incredibly welcoming. Mazara is like that. It has a small town feel. People recognize you are not a local, and wish you a wonderful stay. If you pass them in the street the next day, they will remember you, and say hello.
Fish couscous at Eyem Zemen
Even at night, I was struck by the incredible scenery in La Kasbah. The old buildings are now tastefully decorated with commissioned street art, usually referencing local history. The walls that have stood for centuries have been adorned with ceramic murals. Everything from the street signs, to the history of the streets themselves are painted beautifully on these tiles. They are absolutely charming.
Street art in La Kasbah
The next morning, I set out to see the sights. I began with a walk to the Chiesa di San Francesco. It is incredible just to see the traditional Catholic architecture set among the Arabic influence of La Kasbah. It is a lesson in finding harmony between cultures. Inside, the church is a stunning display of intricate stone sculptures and design; you can also visit the catacombs underneath (from 300 AD!) and an adjacent convent, which is a lovely, tranquil space to reflect. Don’t rush. Take your time to wander.
The gorgeous convent next to the Chiesa di San Francesco
Walk along the Fiumara Màzaro, where you might see fisherman bringing in their catch of the day. You may be lucky to be present for a great discovery, like some were in 1998, when fishermen “caught” a centuries-old bronze statue! Known as the Dancing Satyr, this magnificent find is housed in its own museum, the Museum of the Dancing Satyr. Also by the river you can take a picture of the neat exterior of the Chiesa San Nicolò Regale.
The Fiumara Màzaro
On your way to the Museum of the Dancing Satyr, pop into the Teatro Garibaldi. Charming, this theatre features beautiful handicraft woodwork that takes you back in time. You can feel the energy of the performers lingering. I would love to see a performance here one day!
Mazara del Vallo, city of peace
This neighborhood is also home to the Collegio dei Gesuiti, a former Jesuit residence that today is a space that houses art and is free to the public. And not to be missed is the former Chiesa di Sant’Ignazio. The roof of this church was destroyed during World War II, but its round walls endure. You can be still in these spaces, and it is quiet, peaceful. It is not silent, you are not alone. Mazara del Vallo is a city full of spirits: the friendly warm faces of today, and the souls of the past, who could never bear to leave such a beautiful place entirely.
The courtyard of the Collegio dei Gesuiti
And then you will reach the most impressive of all: the Piazza della Repubblica. This grand space is so elegant, especially in the evening when it is lit up both by lights and the energy of the people enjoying the nightlife. There are several cafés and bars to have either a coffee or a glass of wine as you prefer. I enjoyed sitting outside at VintRo’, as you could see everyone walking through the main thoroughfare, and they had a delicious selection for their aperitivo.
View of the Cattedrale del Santissimo Salvatore in Piazza della Repubblica
Piazza della Repubblica features the Cattedrale del Santissimo Salvatore, the imposing cathedral that features the beautiful turquoise domes that are the North Stars of the city. Stop by for a snack - savory or sweet - with a sea view at Gelateria Mazara and then check out the Museo Diocesano, which features incredible local church relics. If you are searching for some souvenirs with a personal touch, stop by Bugie, just around the corner.
The Arco Normanno in Piazza Mokarta, beautiful both by day and by night
Piazza Mokarta is the bridge between city and sea. This is where you will find the Arco Normanno (Norman Arch) and a great spot for pizza or pasta, Za’ Franca. After you walk down the stairs to the sea, be sure to turn around to see the trademark tiles that line the steps up into the piazza.
Even the stairs are worthy of decoration, Piazza Mokarta
Breathe in the warm scirocco breeze and take a twenty minute walk along the lungomare, the path along the shore, to find the Chiesa San Vito a Mare, a stunning seaside church. All along the lungomare, there are people enjoying a walk, and benches where you can stop to read a book or sketch the beautiful vista. I found the seascape to be immense; in the best way, I lost myself in some moments of contemplation there.
Chiesa San Vito a Mare, along the seafront
My favorite church that I visited, which I hadn’t actually heard of before but just stopped into as I was walking by, was the Chiesa di Santa Caterina. It has a rose gold interior, and you may be lucky to have it all to yourself. I also stopped into the Chiesa di San Giuseppe, which was holding an art exhibition at the time, but I was still able to take in the beautiful baby blue interior, and visit this church dedicated to the saint that shares the name with my Mazarese great-grandfather (and 99% of my male relatives).
I am still there in my heart, I never wanted to leave
There is so much more to do in Mazara del Vallo! This was just what I was able to see in 48 hours. I am already planning my trip back. Alla prossima xx.
Special thanks to Presidente Nicolò Cristaldi, the mayor of Mazara del Vallo, for welcoming me home!
