Palermo - Kalsa - Tribunali
I have decided to publish this guide realizing it will never be complete - Kalsa is an unending unfolding of treasures. But the places listed below are certainly a good place to start in your discovery of one of the quintessential neighborhoods of Palermo!
I love Kalsa, one of the four main districts of the historical center of Palermo. It is the neighborhood in which I stayed on my first visit to Palermo, so it holds special place in my heart as being my first impression of the city. It is full of impressive architecture spanning the complex and diverse history of the city, charming streets, independent artisan shops, museums, cafes, and nightlife.
To orient yourself to the historical center of Palermo, it is only necessary to go the Quattro Canti (four corners) landmark that divides the center into four neighborhoods. Kalsa generally encompasses that which lies between Corso Vittorio Emanuele and Via Lincoln, and Via Maqueda and the Mediterranean sea beyond.
Quattro Canti, the epicenter of historic Palermo
Historical Center
A few gems of Palermo’s historical center lie at the periphery of Kalsa’s bounds, including the infamous Piazza Pretoria. Seated outside of the city hall, the Fontana Pretoria was once colloquially known as the Fontana della Vergogna, or “fountain of shame” due to the nudity of the statues. Day or night, it is one of my favorite sites in Palermo.
The Fontana della Vergogna, Piazza Pretoria
Just behind the fountain is the imposing Chiesa e Monastero di Santa Caterina d’Alessandria. Here you can visit the church itself, and also the monastery and the historic cloisters, but be sure that you don’t miss a visit to the roof terraces. From here you will have a spectacular view of Palermo from all angles, from the mountains to the sea. Ticket prices vary depending on which parts of the church you would like to visit 3€ - 10€.
Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio to the left, and the iconic Chiesa di San Cataldo on the right
Just across the square, the famous Piazza Bellini, lies another symbol of the city, the Chiesa di San Cataldo. Noteworthy for the three red domes atop its structure, this church is emblematic of the Arab-Norman cultural heritage of Sicily. You can buy a ticket (2,50€) to enter if you would like. Inside, you are transported into the past, with arabesque latticework covering the windows and intricately-laid mosaic floors. It’s also fun to see what the domes look like from the inside - I had wondered for so long before I finally went inside!
The interior of the Chiesa di San Cataldo
For another 2€, pop next door to Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio. Completely the opposite of the unadorned San Cataldo, this church is exquisitely ornate with gold mosaic works on the ceilings.
Inside the fantastically adorned Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio
To enter the heart of Kalsa, head down through the Via Discesa dei Giudici, and you will already begin to see the charming cafes and artisan shops that are emblematic of the neighborhood. Cross over Via Roma, and you will enter into the Piazza Sant’Anna, which at night turns into the undisputed gathering place of the Palermo movida.
Nightlife
Speaking of the movida, I’ll begin with nightlife. Kalsa is an excellent place to hang out day or night. As mentioned, Piazza Sant’Anna is the ubiquitous meeting place. At night, it is common to take a beer to go and stand amongst friends and strangers. Bars line the piazza, and the Via Cantavespri that leads to Piazza Rivoluzione, which is full of places to sit. From here, the Via Aragona turns into Via Paternostro, along which you will find several chic bars serving artisan cocktails. Some of my favorites are Dal Barone and Gioccio. Walk this circuit and you will certainly find familiar faces and good drinks.
The ambiance at Ferribott Magazzini Teatrali
My favorite new spot to open recently has been Ferribott Magazzini Teatrali in Via Calderai. I love this place. Lit by candlestickss, enjoy your specially crafted cocktails inside or seated on vintage furniture on the street if it is nice out. Simply tell Gianmaria, the bartender, what you’re into, and he will whip up a cocktail that is both beautiful and delicious. Five stars. Bonus points for many palermitani is that is it is just around the corner from Mounir, which has a reputation to be one of the best kebab in Palermo.
If you prefer a more open space, head to Piazza Magione. A large park, many bars and restaurants line its border, which you can also take away to have a seat in the grass. It is a popular gathering place at night, but also busy during the day with impromptu football games and plenty of space to lay down a blanket to have a picnic or relax.
Piazza Magione
Museums
During the day, Kalsa is home to some of Palermo’s most renowned museums and historical attractions.
My favorite museum in Palermo is GAM - the Galleria d’Arte Moderna. This museum features works centring on Sicily and Sicilian artists from the 1700s until today. The works range from sculpture of mythical folklore that took place on these shores to paintings of scenes from the daily life of fishermen in the early 1900s. Many paintings feature Palermo as it was more than 100 years ago, with local landmarks depicted in the background that you will already be familiar with. Entrance fee €10.
Campagna siciliana (1891), by Giovanni Lombardo Calamia, GAM Palermo
Going back in history a little further, the Palazzo Abatellis features mostly religious medieval works housed in a Gothic-Catalan style palace. There are two noteworthy works to be sure to see here. The first is the impressive Trionfo della Morte, or Triumph of Death, a large, anonymous fresco from 1446. There is also the contemplative Virgin Annuciate, by Antonello da Messina. €8, or free the first Sunday of the month along with all other state museums in Italy!
Overlooking the Triumph of Death, Palazzo Abatellis
One of the most incredible, and recognizable, sights of Palermo is Santa Maria dello Spasimo. It is technically a church, but although it is over 500 years old, it was never completed; the lack of a ceiling leaves you with a gaze up to the heavens. Visiting Spasimo is a true experience of wonderment and contemplation of our small space in the world. There is also a little garden behind to check out where you may or may not find a local art exhibit. It is free to visit during the day (check opening times), however it is equally, if not more, spectacular at night, when there are sometimes concerts or theater perfomances inside.
The stunning Santa Maria dello Spasimo
If you are looking for something totally unique, then see if the Museo Internazionale delle Marionette Antonio Pasqualino is something you would be interested in. This museum offers a unique glimpse into the popular traditions and cultural heritage not only of Sicily, but from many other cultures from around the world as well. €5
And you pass by the Chiesa di San Franscesco while you’re walking around Kalsa, and the doors are open, step inside to see the impressive gothic architecture.
Inside the Chiesa di San Francesco
Lastly on my list of museums for today, but certainly not all of them, is the Palazzo Chiaramonte - Steri. This building had been on my list for a long time, since a friend of mine told me that it housed the classic painting, La Vucciria, by Renato Guttuso. This painting captures the famous market, where today I spent much of my time, in 1974. I will talk more about Vucciria in one of my next blog posts on Palermo :) However, when I finally made it to the Palazzo Steri, I was so surprised to find out it housed so much more than that! It turns out this Palazzo was once home to the Inquisition court and prisons, giving the neighborhood one of its names - Tribunali. It was especially moving to visit, with the guide explaining the symbolism of the drawings on the wall preserved from the prisioners housed there in the 1600s and 1700s. €8, accessible only with guided tour that begins at the top of every hour.
Some of the artwork of the prisoners of the Inquisition, Palazzo Chiaramonte-Steri
Coffee and dessert
Without a doubt, my favorite place in Palermo for sweets is Cioccolateria Lorenzo. One of the cutest corners in Palermo, Cioccolateria Lorenzo is a family business with a lovely, cozy interior and a beautiful garden in the summertime. They offer everything from cheesecake to tiramisu, handmade chocolates and frothy cappuccini. It is really one of my favorite places, but it is very well-loved by locals and tourists alike, so go during off-peak times to find a seat :) If it’s already crowded, be prepared to wait or come back later.
The secret garden of Cioccolateria Lorenzo
One of my latest scoops from Gelateria Al Cassaro - lime & pink pepper and strawberry
And for gelato? Head to Gelateria Al Cassaro. It’s one of the best in Palermo, in my opinion, and for many of my friends as well. Here you can find typical as well as unique, locally-inspired flavors of creamy gelato and fruity sorbetto, as well as granita and little treats for take-away. Friendly atmosphere and quality taste. I recently also discovered Rorò Gelateria, nestled into a corner garden between Piazza Marina and Corso Vittorio. Their cleanly finished aesthetic is reminiscent of Magnolia Bakery, and their gelato is really exquisite. I’m making my way through trying their flavors from classics like amerena (sour cherry) to locally-inspired originals like mandorla e zafferano (almond and saffron).
Restaurants
Palermo is famous for its street food, and while much of it is personally off-limits to me as a vegetarian, such as the famous pani câ meusa, or spleen sandwich, there are other options that I like to indulge in.
A sampling of my favorite Sicilian street food at Friggitoria Chiluzzo
I say indulge because almost everything is fried, and while satiating, can be quite heavy to have every day. My favorite street food is pane panelle e crocchè. This is sandwich filled with sheets of fried chickpea flour as well as fried mashed potatoes, usually with mint. I like to squeeze some lemon juice on top as well. During the day, my go-to place is Friggitoria Chiluzzo, near the Foro Italico. A local place, you will see many people come here on their lunch break for a sandwich and a cold, refreshing beer. You can also take salad, other fried goodies, or a traditional eggplant caponata. Plastic chairs and tables are set up under trees giving shade from the summer sun. Around the corner you will see older men gathering, playing cards until late in the night. Friendly spot that I have been coming to since my very first visit to Palermo!
The Friggitoria is only open during the day, so if you are craving some street food at night there is also Nni Franco U Vastiddaru on Corso Vittorio Emanuele, where you can sit down in the little garden area or take your panini to go. Both of these places are Palermo institutions.
Palermo is a mix of traditions, it always has been a place where people come from all over the world to create a special and unique community. For example, you may not think of falafel as traditional Palermitan fare, but I assure you, it is. Head to Zuer - L’angolo del Kebab at the corner of Via Lincoln and Corso dei Mille. You can get takeaway or sit in the few chairs they have outside. They serve Moroccan-style kebab, but I personally get the falafel piadina wrap - so good! This place is my new go-to for a quick and delicious bite!
Pizza from Ciccio Passami l’Olio
I recently tried Ciccio Passami l’Olio, a pizzeria in Piazza Magione. I had a delicious pizza “Bosciaola.” It had porcini mushrooms and bufala mozzarella cheese and it was really delicious! I will say a pizza place is “upscale” when the average price of a pizza is more around 10€, instead of say 5€, so this place would be considered upscale, however the food was really good and I would definitely go back!
Shops
Kalsa is the best place for shopping in Palermo. You will find so many unique items, gifts for friends and family back home, but also treasures for yourself. Checking out all the local shops, you will understand so much about the local character of Palermo and her people. Creativity and uniqueness are values here!
If you are looking for a high-quality gift, I recommend you check out Antica Cravatteria. This is a family-run tie shop that has been in business for more than 50 years, and is being passed down through generations. Each one of their beautiful silk designs is made only a handful of times, so you know you are getting a truly unique item.
Just across Via Roma, in Piazza Aragona, you’ll find one of my favorite shops in Palermo, InsimuLab. An artistic collective, here you will find some of the most unique kitchen ceramics, jewelry, and satiric embroidery work in the city, all emblematic of Kalsa’s ecceltic, bohemian, chic personality.
And in picture form, you will find Palermo drawn out by artists at ideestortepaper. If I have bought you a card in the last three years, it is probably from them. There botantic postcards and whimsical takes on Palermo landmarks are recognizable all over the city. They also carry their own publications, books for children but also for everyone, written and illustrated by artists in their collective.
If you are looking for gastronomical souvenirs, then my one-stop-shop is always Punto Pizzo Free. They have everything from speciality pasta to liquor to cookies, chocolate, pesto, marmalade, canned fish, honey…really I could go on. These are especially nice for small gifts. For more everyday items (coffee, pasta, crema di pistacchio) that I want to take home for my family, I usually just take a turn in the supermarket.
Things to do
If you find yourself in Palermo on a Sunday morning, plan to stop by the market in Piazza Marina. Here you will find the same faces week after week selling secondhand housewares, vintage furnishings, books, and more.
The market is set up around the fence of the Giardino Garibaldi, a small, beautiful garden. The garden is home to a ficus tree which claims to be the largest tree in Europe. This garden is lovely to walk around or to sit with a book or a friend to chat, but definitely wear bug spray because I never leave there without a mosquito bite.
The famous ficus of Piazza Marina
By the time you’ve made it to Piazza Marina, you will be able to see La Cala, the horseshoe-shaped docks for small boats. You can also walk down Corso Vittorio Emanuele, cross under the Porta Felice, and make your way to the Foro Italico, the promenade along the seaside with views of the Mediterranean. There is grassy areas where you will see pick-up calcio (soccer/football) games and families flying kites. Take in the breeze and the sunshine with a cool drink from one of the many street vendors. This is also the best place for running in the city with flat, even pavement.
Kalsa is full of shops, bars, art spaces, graffiti, and life. It is more of a feeling than an address. An island of its own, I hope this guide helps you to discover one of the neighborhoods that embodies the spirit of Palermo - welcoming, warm, and making you feel at home.
This guide is in no way complete. I’ll leave the rest for you to discover :)
Any subsequent discoveries will be shared on my social media pages! Check there for updates!
For more neighborhoods in Palermo, please see my other guides here.
Note: The header image is a typical street at dusk in Kalsa.
