Cinque Terre
Ah, brace yourself for le Cinque Terre. The five villages nestled into a curve of the Lingurian coast in the Italian Riviera. Friends and family who have visited have been telling me of its beauty for years, and I was recently fortunate to visit and see the wonder for myself.
The Cinque Terre is a place that to me felt overwhelming when researching it. Once I arrived here though, I understood that, of course, there are systems in place to ensure tourists are able to take advantage of what there is to see. The most essential of these is the regional train that runs frequently from Levanto to La Spezia, stopping in each of the five towns. The Cinque Terre card pays for itself, buying you unlimited rides on the train, entrance to the national park if you will be doing any hiking from village to village (which you should attempt if you are able), and the shuttle bus in Corniglia that drives you from the train station up the very, very steep hill to the actual village. The walk up looked miserable. Not to mention the card is worth getting just to avoid standing in long lines to buy tickets each time you want to ride the the train. You can buy the ticket at any train station in the five villages, or in Levanto or La Spezia.
Riomaggiore
Allora, about the towns themselves already! We began in Riomaggiore, which feels like a big city after visiting the smaller towns. Walking down to the harbour, it was everything I imagined of the Cinque Terre: pastel palazzi, fishing boats in the water, and stunning views. Via Colombo is the main street, and the fried (sea)food and focaccia are what you are searching for. Be on the lookout for something fresh and warm.
The next village is Manarola, smaller, but similar to, Riomaggiore. We walked to the viewpoint to get the photo, you know, that photo, of the village as viewed from far away. Along with hundreds of others. We did get to see some rock jumping though, which was a communal exercise in holding your breath and then exclaiming in cheers when those fearless souls surfaced from the deep blue water.
The next day we started in Corniglia, the small, charming village that is high into the hills, but that has the most stunning views. On our walk to the viewpoint, where you can actually see the other villages nestled in the hills, we had homemade gelato from Alberto Gelateria (I broke away from my traditional order of pistacchio e caffè to try the flavors they are known for: basil basilico, prickly pear cactus fichi d’india, and honey miele). While waiting for the bus to take us back down, we wandered in the opposite direction and found ourselves on the trail of the Sentiero Azzuro - the path that in theory should lead one through all five villages, but which sections of which are likely to be closed. Already well on our way, decided to continue on.
Il Sentiero Azzuro
The hike had stunning views, but they weren’t free. We paid in sweat. Either way you walk, you walk up for the first half of the hike, but then once you start going down, you don’t stop. It took us about two hours, stopping often for pictures and water/shade breaks. I wore tennis shoes, but most important to know is that the rocks are uneven, slippery, and can be sharp. Fai attenzione! Always be aware of your surroundings, test the wood railings before you lean on the them, and watch your footing, especially if taking photos to make sure you have your balance. Safety first.
Before arriving in Vernazza proper, we stopped for lunch at Ristorante Bar la Torre. A welcome place to sit down, cool off, and enjoy the view that was well earned. I tried their trofie al pesto, a small homemade twisted pasta with the local specialty, pesto, a blend of pine nuts, basil, olive oil, and parmigiano. I usually don’t prefer pesto, but this was different. This sauce was delicate, savory, and creamy. I enjoyed it, and the white wine, of the house, immensely. After that, it was only a few stairs more down into the village. We walked to the harbor, but with time winding down and not keen on the larger crowd there, we decided to move on.
You must try the local speciality, pesto, (Ristorante Bar la Torre)
We made it to Monterosso al Mare, left the train station, and found Nuovo Eden Bar, a private beach, and made straight for the water. There are free beaches as well, but after investigating them the day before, they were lacking for space and we wanted to lay out on chairs. It usually is beneficial to invest in a paid beach, as there are restrooms, changing rooms, sun-beds, and umbrellas. They are often connected to a restaurant so you can easily buy drinks and food. We arrived later in the day, and received a discount as such.
Dress code varies in the Cinque Terre. I saw people in sundresses and sandals and others wearing athletic gear and hiking boots. Know yourself. Be prepared. You don’t want to be caught without proper shoes if you will be hiking, but also want to feel comfortable while shopping and sightseeing. It’s a balance, but remember, everyone is experiencing the same thing. And it is so beautiful, the last thing anyone is concerned about is whether you got a little sweaty or wore tennis shoes with a dress. Relax, and enjoy the view.
The best way to end your day in Cinque Terre, at the beach in Monterosso al Mare
I enjoyed staying in La Spezia, the town that bookends the Cinque Terre along with Levanto on the northern end. With much less tourists, we were able to experience the daily pace of life, including an outdoor market in the street in front of our palazzo. Take a stroll to the new marina, over the white bridge, along the docked yachts and have an apertivo with the sea breezing by. We had a wonderful dinner at Vicolo Intherno, but you must call ahead if you want to sit outside in the charming side-street. I also got to have a little taste of Napoli from Bella Napoli Pizzeria; it was charming inside, but they also do delivery!
Going on vacation is an expense, and I was nervous that the Cinque Terre would be pricey. It certainly can be, but if you know your budget, you will be able to find places that are reasonable, and comparable to larger Italian cities.
Cinque Terre is popular for a reason, but the crowdedness was overwhelming for me. Personally, I prefer to wander through small villages like these, passing through the shops, enjoying a drink by the water, and just strolling. This was my only issue, and I do not believe it should deter someone from traveling there. Just know that you will not be alone. We all deserve to visit any place that we desire. I hope that the Cinque Terre can preserve their small town atmospheres while adjusting to the growing number of people who are learning of its beauty, history, cuisine, and friendly people.
Note: Before traveling, I often research via Instagram, travel blogs, etc. I don’t usually use guidebooks, but I would recommend if traveling here to pick up at your local bookshop or library a copy of Rick Steve’s guide to Cinque Terre. It’s tiny and you can definitely carry it. There was a copy that was left in our AirBNB that helped us tremendously. However, I always write solely from my own experience. A few of the above places may be found in his guidebook: some we searched for based on his recommendation, and some we happened to stumble on ourselves. There’s not that many places to go in such small towns, so we were bound to overlap. Credit where credit is due, grazie Rick!
