I love trips like the one I recently took to Ortigia, the island off the coast of the southern Sicilian city of Siracusa. This trip was the epitome of the Italian expression Il dolce far niente - the sweetness of doing nothing.

Traveling to Ortigia is a trip of walking and wandering around the small island. It is about enjoying the sights, the sounds, and of course, the food. While only a footbridge away from the island of Sicily, walking onto Ortigia is like escaping to a different country. A getaway.

*Walking the ramparts at Castello Maniace*

An extension of the historic, like ancient historic, city of Siracusa, the island of Ortigia was born from mythology, and the divine spirit lingers still. Ortigia was the birthplace of the goddess Artemis, who among her reign counts the moon, the hunt, and wilderness, all of which make up the essence of the island. When walking the ramparts of Castello Maniace, the fortress that makes up the southernmost point of the island, the wind will try to take you with her, and you will feel that wild spirit in the breeze.

If you arrive by bus, as my friend and I did, you arrive in the most romantic bus drop-off I’ve ever been at, the Parco del Foro Siracusano in Siracusa proper. It is about a ten minute walk from here to one of two bridges that you can cross to reach Ortigia. Of course, it is worthwhile to take your time and enjoy the mainland as well.

*A walk across this bridge, and you are a world away*

I was in love with Ortigia immediately. Although wild, she is charming. At the center of the city lies Piazza Archimede, named after one of the city’s most famous citizens, the Greek renaissance man Archimedes, who lived here in the 200s BC. There is a beautiful fountain here surrounding a statue of the resident goddess, although it is named after her Roman mythological complement, Diana.

*Piazza Archimede and the Fontana di Diana*

You can reach Piazza Archimede directly from the mainland by walking down Corso Giacomo Matteotti, the High Street of town, with many well-known stores. But before you turn on to the main street, be sure to pass by the Tempio di Apollo, ruins of a Greek temple dedicated to Artemitis’ twin brother.

We had been exploring from Ortigia for a while when we came across the Piazza del Duomo. I was amazed. Ortigia is a small island in size, but the cathedral, Il Duomo di Siracusa, represents her grandeur. This cathedral is a monument in itself. Built on the foundations of the Tempio di Athena, there are still Doric columns from the Greek monument visible and integral to the structure of the building. To me, it shows the harmony in which so many cultures have evolved and entwined through the millennia to cultivate the spirit of Sicily.

*Part Greek temple, part Baroque cathedral, the Duomo represents millennia of Sicilian history*

From Piazza del Duomo, you will reach the Fonte Aretusa and the seafront. Like most places here, it is full of mythological wonder, where Arethusa, a nymph, arrived to earth after fleeing Arcadia. However, to stand here and watch the land melt into the Mediterranean sea, you would think you had arrived in heaven.

Further south along the seafront, you will reach Castello Maniace. It is the end of the island, but it could very well be the end of the earth. To enter is only 4€, but be sure to give yourself time to wander, to sit, to relax, and to enjoy. As this place is timeless.

*Looking out at the end of the earth, Castello Maniace*

My friend had found for us the incredible Residenza Saturno B&B near Piazza Archimede. There was a rooftop terrace, where on a sunny Sunday morning, we had brunch. My friend squeezed fresh juice from blood oranges she bought at the local market. We ate loti fruit, a Mediterranean treat, and cornetti from Viola Bakery.

As amazing as that sounds, there was even one thing better that came from this B&B. When we were checking in, it was suggested to us to go to the local market for lunch. Specifically, to take a panino from Caseificio Borderi. This led to one of the most profound food experiences of my life. My friend and I knew instantly we would have an amazing meal when we saw the tubs of fresh mozzarella. It was Andrea, a known figure in Siracusa, who was preparing panini for the guests ahead of us. We saw the ingredients from fresh arugula and tomatoes, to preserved onions and cured parmigiano being habitually layered together to create what, I cannot emphasize this enough, is the best sandwich I have ever eaten (the standard sandwich has some type of meat, so if you are a vegetarian be sure to request without!). There is a patio with table service, but it was full. My friend and I then eagerly took our panini to the seafront, the Lungomare, and enjoyed them along with the stunning view. Multiple times did we just look at each other, and sigh from joy.

Another great find that we stumbled upon was Biblios Cafè. We were drawn in by this bookshop, which features many titles relevant to Sicily and Siracusa, as well as poetry and mythology. We realized it was also a cozy cafe, and decided to stay for a while. We sipped wonderful herbal tisane and played scopa, a card game using traditional Italian playing cards.

As it was Lunar New Year, it was serendipitous when we noticed Ristorante Cinese Shanghai just by the Fontana Aretusa. With several vegetarian options, my friend and I sampled ravioli di verdure, vegetable dumplings, spring rolls, fried rice, and noodles. Luckily we shared, so we had room for dessert - fried ice cream and lychee fruit. It’s all about balance, you know.

And finally, on what might be the most important note of all: il gelato. Fior di Latte Gelateria in Piazza del Duomo looked so good that although it was closed when we arrived, we waited 20 minutes for it to open. And it was worth the wait. I took lemon sorbetto and fior di latte gelato. The sweet milk flavor with the tart lemon was just the treat for a sunny January day in Sicily.

This weekend spent on Ortigia was full of joy and life. Full of good food and happy times. Beautiful walks along the sea. Il dolce far niente. This is Sicily.