Oct 12

Oct 12 Ustica

Travel, Photo Diaries, Europe, Italy, Sicily

Wild.

Wild is the word that comes to mind to describe Ustica. A small island at least an hour off the coast of Palermo, Ustica is so far away from it all that during the Fascist period, it was essentially an outdoor prison, one of many outposts where dissidents were sent in exile so as not to spread their radical views to the public. These outposts were chosen because they were so remote, it was figured that there these journalists and thinkers could not do any damage; an experience memorialized in the essential reading (and also excellent film) of Christ Stopped at Eboli by Carlo Levi.

Wild.

Wild is not only in the spirit of the island, the wind that changes its character depending on from where it comes; wild is also in the nature, in the soul of this place. As newcomers, unseasoned to the rhythm of the way of life, our injuries were numerous: skin scratched against the black volcanic rock as the waves crashed in, sea urchins defending their territory in the natural pools, wasps that crash into you as you are riding on the aptly-named Vespa, jellyfish that graze you while swimming in the crystal-clear water. Waking up with spines from the prickly pear cactuses that omnipresently exist in the air. Like an ecosystem, everything in this wild place is interconnected and bound together. Brambles of wild berries on the side of the road, the garden bearing more eggplant than we could eat.

There is the small town, also named Ustica, with everything you need: bakeries and bars to have coffee in the morning, a panino in the afternoon, and a lemon granita for dessert. Shops selling beach gear: the essentials are water shoes to be able to walk without fear across the rocks and avoid any sea urchin spines, as well as goggles and a mask - if you think Ustica is pretty from above, the most stunning beauty is below the water. When one member of our party was stung by a jellyfish, one of the children excitedly grabbed a mask and ran right back into the water to try to catch a glimpse of the creature.

The rest of the island is either wild or private ranch-style houses, with gardens full of produce. The areas for swimming lie along the southwest of the island. One cove after another, each with its own style. People who have been going to Ustica their whole lives know these places deeply, and each has their favorite. Some offer a place to jump into deep water, others have small pools to relax in. We did even manage to find a thin stretch of pebble beach hiding under an embankment off the side of the road. The best way to get around is by motorbike, so you can hop on and just take off. And with the summer heat, you’ll appreciate the breeze.

It is worth visiting the small cemetery and church devoted to residents of the island. The view from here is all sea. To imagine a life lived with the this view before you gives you much to contemplate and reflect on.

If you want to take a memory home from Ustica, there is nothing better than food. Stop by the shop Specialità di Maria Cristina - a small room full of small glass jars containing the gastronomic treasures of Ustica - from caponata di melanzane (eggplant caponata), marmellata di fichi (fig jam), and perhaps most importantly, the famed lenticchie (lentils).

Ustica is a place to get away and get together. To join with family and friends and retreat from city life and from daily life, to rest, recover, and re-energize. I returned from Ustica with a sun tan, and a scar or two, but it’s the memories I’ll always cherish.

Grazie mille to our wonderful host, my dear friend Vivetta!

Note: the header image was taken at the Cimitero di Ustica, the cemetery.