Cefalù
Even before a spontaneous trip, I like to at least look up what are considered the main highlights of a new place: you never know what incredible sight you may just miss if you are not looking out for it. I am so glad I did this before heading to Cefalù, and I was able to have an beautiful afternoon spent in nature.
When hiking in La Rocca, you can reconnect with nature only steps from the city
La Rocca di Cefalù, the rock, towers over the city, yet is a hidden gem. Had I not scoped out the main attractions beforehand, I would have never guessed that the fortress that makes up the dramatic backdrop against the sea was a park full of hiking trails, ruins, and breathtaking views.
Stunning views that have been enjoyed for centuries
I began my morning leisurely. The train runs often from Palermo (5,60€ one-way), and the less-than-an-hour trip hugs the coast and makes for a beautiful ride. Upon arriving in Cefalù, I simply followed the crowd into town, stopping in Piazza Garibaldi to have a cappuccino and cornetto al fresco at Antica Porta Terra. Little did I know how close I was already to beginning my hike!
My breakfast view of La Rocca from Piazza Garabaldi. To the left of the pink building is the staircase of Via Giuseppe Fiore, and the beginning of your hike.
Via Giuseppe Fiore stems from Piazza Garibaldi, and you can take this street to reach the entrance of the park (be sure to buy any water or snacks you will need for your hike before you leave the town!). It is only 4€ to enter the park, and there is an attendant to help you. I had exact change, but there was also a credit card machine. I was given a slip of paper that I almost threw away, but hang on to it because the attendant collects on the way out.
The tranquil path of La Rocca
The way up La Rocca is very straightforward, making for an enjoyable hike. There is basically one winding path, so all you have to do it follow it. Very quickly into the hike, you will start finding ruins of all kinds; they complement the natural beauty. You also very quickly come to a crossroads: a sign will ask you to choose the Archaeological Area, or the Castle. Don’t worry! You will see both. Head to the Archaeological Area, as it is taking the scenic route. The Castle is the final destination.
The ruins of the Archaeological Site include the Church of Santa Anna.
There are picnic benches to stop and snack by the Church of Santa Anna (be sure to find the trash cans or take it with you!). This was a nice shady area, but if you keep walking, you will discover what were the settlement walls, perched high above the city and the sea. I spent quite a bit of time here: thinking, reflecting, writing, and taking photos. It was gorgeous, and with the sea breeze, very refreshing.
Looking down on Cefalù from above, you can really take in the scale of the cathedral
Ready to continue, I made my way back to the sign for the crossroads I found initially (you also may come across alternative routes, but they were closed when I visited). If you didn’t stop by on your way to the wall, also in the Archaeological Area is the Temple of Diana, which is centuries-old. It was so moving to walk through these rocks, imagining what once was and all those who have walked there before me.
Be on the lookout for the signs! I first explored the Archaeological Area before heading up to the castle.
I made my way back to the sign, and then began the ascending path to the castle. You will find many ruins along your way, but as long as you can head up, continue. Even at the top, where you will immediately find the outline of ruins, continue. Soon you will again see the sea, and the remains of castle walls await your summit.
When there is no higher left to climb, it’s time to explore the castle grounds - with the best view yet!
By the time I’d made my way back down to Piazza Garibaldi, I had spent about 3 hours in the park, stopping often to take pictures and take in the view. I then wandered down the Corso Ruggero to visit the La Cattedrale di Cefalù, the cathedral. When viewing the town from La Rocca above, you can appreciate the size of the cathedral, but it is necessary to go inside to have the full experience of the characteristic Arab-Norman architecture. There are several places to sit in the Piazza del Duomo outside to have a coffee or gelato and take in the impressive presence of the cathedral, and also to recover from the hike.
The distinctive Arab-Norman architecture with the intricate mosaic work in La Cattedrale di Cefalù
Back on Corso Ruggero, I cut down a side street to get to the parallel Via Vittorio Emanuele. I wanted to see Il Lavatoio Medievale, the medieval washhouse of the city. Just look for the sign; it is free to walk in. Different basins sit atop the flowing river below, perfect for washing. These are not ruins, but a rare opportunity to step into the daily life of someone who lived centuries ago. Many people popped in for a look, but I stayed longer, contemplating at how beautiful the simple things can be.
The tranquil Lavatoio Medievale
Walking through Cefalù you will find several restaurants and shops, as well as a beautiful beach, which runs all along the seafront, to lay out and swim from. For the best view, walk along to the stone pier from Piazza Marina that juts into the sea. The water is a clear turquoise; you can see the rocks deep below. At sunset, it was one of the most spectacular sights I’ve seen. The buildings illuminate and reflect golden onto the water; La Rocca towering above.
La Rocca above the city
I wasn’t ready to leave just yet, so I stopped at the candlelit Enoteca Rossorubino on Via Carlo Ortolani di Bordonaro for an apertivo and to watch the people strolling by. I hadn’t known what to expect when I set off to Cefalù, but what I found was a day full of adventure, beauty, friendly people, and memories that I carry with me today.
Disclaimer: This hike may be challenging for some. Watch for all posted signs and notices. The route I took may have been altered since I was there. Trust your instincts and always put safety first!
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The following is an update from August 2022:
I recently returned to Cefalù for the first time in almost three years! Much was the same, including breakfast at the Antica Porta Terra, still one of the classic sights of the city.
But I did venture further out this time, having a panini alongside the lungomare before visiting the one and only museum in Cefalù, the Museo Mandralisca. My friend and I had held out hope that there would be some central A/C there, but alas no. However, we did find unexpectedly the Portrait of an Unknown Man (1465), by Antonello de Messina, which is considered a masterpiece, and gave us Mona Lisa vibes, his eyes and smize watching us as we sat and talked in front of the small air conditioning unit.
The Tuna Seller
I also found amusing vases, painted in the 4th century B.C., of tuna sellers. I love the lifelike portrayals, so realistic compared to other stylized images we are used to seeing.
My friend and I then had a relaxing swim - the beach at Cefalù is amazing, but it was also incredibly crowded! However, where the buildings that line the shore (right in town, as seen in the picture of La Rocca above the city earlier in this post) meet the water are several small coves which are less crowded. Some seem to be the “front yards” of some lucky people’s homes, with their doors practically exiting onto the water.
For shopping, I was happy to stop into a fabulous ceramics shop, A Lumera, where I picked up a beautiful red ceramic bowl as a souvenir.
Finally, my friend and I enjoyed an aperitivo and a sunset dinner overlooking the water at two different establishments along Via Carlo Ortolani di Bordonaro before catching the last train back to Palermo.
Sunset
