Florence

Firenze, as it is known in Italian, was the first city I visited independently with friends while studying abroad in Rome six years ago. It was a little weekend getaway, but I remember it well. I recently went back, and this trip was tinged with memories - walking by a little boutique where I had bought something treasured, sitting in the Piazza del Duomo and remembering how we had stumbled upon an impromptu concert here on our late-night quest for pizza. Looking up at the Cupola del Brunelleschi (Il Duomo) and being glad I wasn’t again climbing the stairs to the top, the ceiling too low even for me at times (glad to have done it though).

La Cattadrale di Santa Maria del Fiore, with Il Duomo

Like last time, we stayed south of the Arno, the river that cuts Florence into two. The northern part of the city is home to the most well-known tourist attractions, and therefore, a large number of tourists that overwhelm such a small city. South of the river there are several historical and artistic attractions worthy of visiting. But the best part is that when you cross the river, you enter almost a different city, one where you can stroll down the sun-drenched streets in silence.

I love the warm Tuscan color scheme

We stayed in the Borgo Santo Spirito. It’s a local neighborhood, but well connected to the center of the city. No more than a thirty minute walk to reach any attraction or to the train station, Santa Maria Novella. Once I’ve gotten off the train, I’ve only ever walked around Florence.

Florence is a must for art lovers. Of course, it was home to the Renaissance, and you will understand why so much inspiration was generated here. The two museums that most people want to visit are the Galleria dell’Accademia and the Gallerie degli Uffizi. Book your tickets ahead of time - with the short amount of time people allot to Florence on their trips to Italy, you do not want to waste any of it standing in line. Because the tickets are timed, we were able to guarantee with no stress that we would see both museums on one day.

Even the ceiling at the Uffizi is a work of art

The Accademia is home to Michelangelo’s imposing David. Until in his presence, you will not be able to understand just how magnificent he is. Towering above the people who are like ants at his feet, you will contemplate beauty, strength, and power. After taking a walk-around to view the statue from all angles, be sure to also check out their sculpture collection just down the hall. As a poet, I found it a room full of muses.

I had not visited the Uffizi before, so for me this was a wonderful opportunity to view some of my favorite works of art in person for the first time. It is home to the incredible Artemisia Gentileschi’s Judith Beheading Holofernes, Caravaggio’s Medusa, and Sandro Botticelli’s The Birth of Venus. The Uffizi is two floors and easy to navigate, though there is so much art housed here it can be hard to absorb it all. Be sure to take a coffee break at the café, which you will reach at the halfway point of exploring. Unless you’re really tired, choose the economical option and stand with your coffee rather than have table service. There is a terrace where you can see Il Duomo, Il Campanile di Giotto (the bell-tower), and the Palazzo Vecchio.

Palazzo Vecchio is another recognizable Florentine landmark

When you leave the Uffizi, be sure to pass through the Loggia dei Lanzi, which is an open-air portico holding statues just next door. You will likely walk through here anyway, as it is on the way to the Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore, the icon of Florence. On this trip, we did not go in - the line was too long and the sun too scorching. If you really want to visit, and also climb to the top of Il Duomo (it’s tight but you do have a good view of Florence), book tickets ahead of time. If pressed for time, just see the outside.

You will undoubtedly need to cross the river at some point, and there are several bridges to do so. The most famous is the complex Ponte Vecchio. This is a living bridge, and like the Ponte Rialto in Venice, there are shops on the bridge! However, it is distinguished by its Tuscan style. It is quite stunning with its warm hues and old stone construction, especially when viewed at sunset from the next bridge, the Ponte Santa Trinita. Between the two bridges, and along the river on the north side, you will find Boutique Nadine, a shop that mixes vintage finds with modern designers. The vintage selections are far more economical, and this is where I found a gorgeous vintage red wallet which I still cherish - both for its style and its memories.

The shops on the Ponte Vecchio, painted gorgeous Tuscan hues

Another new place I was able to visit on this trip was the Giardino di Boboli. Located south of the river, you can begin your walk in the park at the Porta Romana. We picked up some treats. First, gelato from Yogurt Gelateria Porta Romana. I usually stick to my order of pistacchio e caffè, but I made an exception to try their cioccolato peperoncino (chocolate with spicy pepper - delicious!). We also picked up some perfect picnic food, schiacciata con l’uva, from Forno Pintucci. It is a traditional Tuscan focaccia baked with plump purple grapes that cook down in the oven to become juicy and sweet. I love gardens, especially when they are in the center of a bustling city. Somehow, knowing you are in an oasis makes the quiet and nature that much more precious.

The tranquil Giardino di Boboli

And now for the food! Each region of Italy has a distinct culinary culture, and there were so many dishes on the menu I was seeing for the first time, but are actually classics for the area. One night we dined at Trattoria I’Raddi, a well-known local spot. We tried the traditional fried dough coccoli, with stracchino, a soft cheese. For my dinner I had one of my favorite dishes, spaghetti aglio olio e peperoncino (spaghetti with spicy garlic olive oil), with a twist: it had a gorgonzola cream base and breadcrumbs. Another night, we just happened to walk by Trattoria Diladdarno. They have seating inside, but we opted to sit in the small outdoor garden. It was so charming. There were so many different things on the menu I wanted to try! I ended up ordering ravioli with eggplant and provala cheese. We couldn’t resist having dessert as well: blackberry tart with lavender sorbet and ginger ice cream. Divine.

I understand why many people do not venture across the river. Florence is small enough to be considered a day trip. And when you only have one day, you have to prioritize. One cannot visit Florence without seeing David, for example. My suggestion would be to make Florence a home base for a trip to Tuscany, or at least give yourself a weekend to wander the streets. While I have been there twice, and visited most of the “must-see” attractions, there are still more waiting for me to discover. Alla prossima!

Note: The header image is outside the Palazzo Pitti, which is another entrance/exit for the Giardino di Boboli.