Rome - Trastevere

Trastevere is one of my favorite neighborhoods in Rome, and the neighborhood I would most recommend you to stay in on your trip to Rome. It is a central location from which to explore, near a main train station and within walking distance to both the Vatican and the Colosseum. Trastevere is well-known to tourists, yet it has not been lost to them. It is a unique neighborhood in that despite its popularity, has maintained its local character. Despite being home to many young international students and expats, it is also a traditional Roman neighborhood home to families who have lived there for generations. I hope this harmonious balance can endure, as Trastevere is charming and authentic, a rare combination in these days of hyper-tourism.

I love strolling through Trastevere

Trastevere is a good place to visit anytime, day or night, and especially in the late afternoon to take an aperitivo and watch the goings-on of the neighborhood. Just down the street from Piazza Trilussa, one of the main meeting points in the neighborhood and a nice place itself to just sit and watch, is Freni e Frizoni. This is a chic, casual bar where they take aperitivo, the traditional pre-dinner drink and snack, very seriously. This means that with your cocktail of choice comes not just some potato chips, but a whole little room full of various salads and small bites for you to choose from. You can take your plate and sit in the small piazza outside to enjoy the warm Roman nights and the famous Roman light.

Those Roman buildings…

There are little bars and caffès, where you can find both coffee and light drinks throughout the day, all over Trastevere. One of the places I like to go, whether meeting friends or to enjoy a good book, is Pimm’s Good, which has a nice enclosed patio so you can enjoy the street-view without worrying about the traffic while it zooms by. I also like Caffè Settimiano, set on a charming corner with a view of the Porta Settimiana, an ancient gate to the former walled city of Rome.

Trastevere in bloom

After your aperitivo, you will find no shortage of places to eat. On my latest trip to Rome, we had delicious pizza at an old favorite of mine (& of many others), Dar Poeta. I would recommend getting here early, as the queue begins when they open for dinner and it is very popular. Sitting inside or out, you will enjoy yourself and your pizza. Their supplì, the traditional Roman street food snack which is simply put, a fried ball of risotto, is a great way to begin your meal. On this trip we also ate at Grazia & Graziella for our last Roman meal. Dining al fresco, we all enjoyed our pasta and celebrating the end of a wonderful trip. I had the traditional Roman dish of cacio e pepe (pasta with pecorino romano cheese and black pepper). Be careful not to confuse cacio (cheese), with calcio, the Italian word for football (soccer). But when in Rome, be sure to find a local dive and take in a match with local fans.

Delicious cacio e pepe at Grazia & Graziella

If you’re craving a gelato post-dinner, my favorite spot in Trastevere is Fiordiluna, an artisan gelateria where they produce fresh and quality gelato. Try the their duetto flavor, a mix of hazelnut and pistachio. It’s so good!

Roman sunsets

If you’d rather grab a cocktail, the alternative 8 millimetri is an old favorite from my university days that I like to return to. Their cocktails are excellent, the decor is eclectic, and I like to go back when I’m in town to get a taste of my Roman youth. Another cool place to sit with your drink is M8 Mate Bar. Set in a cave-like locale, this bar is an über-cool place to be. And if you’re so inclined, stop in for a shot of tequila and say ciao for me to Alessio at Almalu Trastevere.

Trastevere by night

In Italy it is a pastime to just hang out in the the myriad of piazze, or the squares, the open spaces. One of the most beautiful in Trastevere is the Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere. You should check it out during the day, and visit the beautiful church, the Basilica di Santa Maria. At night, it is full of people sitting around the fountain in the middle of the piazza, just enjoying the night. If you’d like to take a drink, right around the corner is the famous Bar San Calisto, a classic Roman bar. Grab a beer, and a seat if you can find one. If not, join the crowd that will be gathered in the Piazza di San Calisto just out front.

The sunset from the steps of Piazza Trilussa

During the day, I like to come to Trastevere for shopping. Due to the vibrant international scene, there are plenty of English language bookshops, including the Almost Corner Bookshop. Trastevere is also home to two of my favorite vintage stores. Twice Vintage Shop has classic pieces from time gone by. Wynwood Lab is more a mix of vintage and boutique items; over the years I’ve found some great things as gifts for others, and for myself.

Scenes from Trastevere

Trastevere is a great neighborhood to take a leisurely stroll, but if you are up for the challenge of walking up an admittedly steep hill, you will be rewarded with an incredible panoramic view of Rome from the Il Gianicolo, the Janiculum Hill. Set your maps app to take you to the Fontana dell’Acqua Paola, itself one of Rome’s beautiful places, and head “up” the Via di Porta S. Pancrazio. After taking in the view from the portico, and the impressive fountain herself, head to the Parco del Gianicolo. The park and the views are beautiful. Be sure not to miss the statue of revolutionary Giuseppe Garibaldi, inscribed with the words: “Rome o Morte.” Rome or death.

The road leading to the statue of Garibaldi on the Gianicolo

Trastevere is full of good food, good vibes, and good people. This list is just a brief look at what’s it has to offer. Go down the little roads and discover for yourself. Then, be sure to tell me what you’ve found.

This is the third post in a series about Rome, the city I consider to be a second home. You can check out the other posts here.

Note: The header image is taken walking across the Ponte Sisto, the bridge that leads to Trastevere.