Rome - Prati

During my time as a student in Rome, I lived in Balduina, a residential district north of the Vatican. Specifically, and significantly, I lived at the top of a hill, Monte Mario. I wish I could say all that uphill walking balanced out the immense amounts of pasta, pizza, and red wine I was consuming, but it only mitigated the inevitable.

Living in this neighborhood meant that I had to commute to arrive downtown. I am so grateful now for what seemed like an inconvenience at the time. Rome’s public transit is a bit notorious these days, but back then it was only annoying. The bus would come either in ten minutes or in one hour. A friend joked with me that he only ever saw me running when it was for a bus. But when you saw one, you didn’t want to miss it. Not only did I get to learn the city on public transit, but because our phones didn’t work abroad, we had no idea when a bus was coming. Bus stop bonding cemented friendships within groups and between them, as we all tried to pass the time on some deserted sidewalk stoop in the Eternal City.

I spent a good deal of time in beautiful Piazza Cavour, mostly waiting for the bus

My nostalgic detour there aside, to get to the historic center, I had to go through the neighborhood of Prati, which is northeast of Vatican City. I spent a lot of time there, and not just waiting to transfer from the 990 to the 23 to go to Trastevere to party at night. I also did a lot of shopping on Via Cola di Renzo by day.

Prati is also home to some of my favorite spots in Rome. The top being Dolce Maniera. This is a bakery, and they make everything from cornetti (Italian croissants) to pizzette (mini-pizzas). They are located in the basement of a building, but there will often be a line up to the street. Oh, and they are open 24 hours.

The front of the Mercato dell’Unità, and the warm-colored stone architecture of Prati that I love

Just down the street from Dolce Maniera, you will find Lemongrass Gelateria. Situated on a street corner, I remember being attracted by its white, clean design. I don’t usually order sorbetto, not because I don’t like it but because I just prefer gelato. It felt so fresh here though, I wanted a crisp taste, like that of a ripe fruit. I always love to try a signature flavor if one is available and Lemongrass has one that is divine: white chocolate with lemon cream and praline.

Have you ever had that experience, of wanting to try a new bar or restaurant for so long, and then when you finally do, it exceeds your expectations? Thankfully that was what happened when a friend invited me to an aperitivo at La Zanzara (in English, the mosquito!). We sat outside on the lovely Via Crescenzio, drank refreshing cocktails, and had an endless series of different snacks and small bites delivered to our table. This place fills up fast and most people stay awhile, so come early if you want a seat. Very hip, and lived up to the hype.

View from Ponte Umberto I, majestic even on a rainy day

I love wandering around Prati with its wide avenues and sun-kissed stone buildings. There’s good shopping and good food. It can be very crowded, as there is the Vatican, the metro station, the tram, and many bus stops; yet wander a bit and you can find a quiet street just around the block. Don’t worry about getting lost either. Unlike most other parts of Rome, Prati has a grid design, so it’s difficult to get too turned around.

My final recommendation for Prati is for when you leave it. Walk down the Via della Conciliazione, away from the Basilica di San Pietro. Then, turn around and look back at the view. This building was intended to inspire faith. Whatever you believe, it is something to marvel at. You will quickly reach the Castel Sant’Angelo, which despite all the time I have spent in Rome, I have not yet been inside. Walk across the Ponte Sant’Angelo and then back again, as there are beautiful statues lining both sides of the bridge and you do not want to miss one.

The stunning Castel Sant’Angelo

Alternatively, you can walk down Via Cola di Renzo (then turn onto Via Cicerone) or Via Crescenzio to reach Piazza Cavour. Piazza Cavour is home to a lovely park with benches and palm trees. Walk around the large government building to the Tevere (Tiber River) and you will find another bridge, Ponte Umberto I. From this bridge you will find one of the most beautiful views of Rome. The sunset here is just incredible.

This is the first in a series of posts about my favorite spots in Rome, the first place I ever called a “second home.” I still love to visit, and it’s a city I feel especially passionate about offering advice for, as it can be chaotic and confusing for a new arrival. At her heart though, Roma is beautiful, romantic, and Eternal. You can find all of the posts in the series by clicking here.